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Panettone

Preparation of the natural yeast
The towering round panettone is made from a dough rich in egg yolks and butter, giving it its distinctive golden color.
The yeasts present in a small amount of dough should not be used, but kept submerged in a container of cold water, with a lid, in a refrigerator; they will keep for about 4-5 days.
Before this precautionary period expires, the dough is removed from the water once it has formed a thin yellow crust and has risen out of the water. To give it renewed strength and to prevent the death of the yeasts, the crust is removed, and the dough is weighed and kneaded again with wheat flour and water in the following quantities

mother yeast (madre) g 100
patent flour g 150
water g 50

Without overdoing it, knead these ingredients into a smooth compound, to give the yeasts the nutriments they need for preservation.
Place the new compound in cold water and put it back in the refrigerator for another 4-5 days of conservation.
Theoretically speaking, you could go on like this forever. In fact the advocate of this method has yeast that dates to 1955, the year in which he simply came to possess it (it already existed before this date).
Kept in this way, the yeast is not strong enough to leaven a recipe with many components, so it needs to be strengthened as follows: 3 days before use, the leavened dough in the refrigerator is taken out of the water, weighed, and kneaded with water and flour.

The quantities used for this first dough strengthening are

mother yeast g 100
patent flour g 100
water g 35-40

Successive doughs will be made using

yeast g 100
patent flour g 150
water g 50-60

A smooth dough is required, obtained without overdoing the kneading, which then needs to be placed in water and kept at room temperature for 12 hours.
Repeat the operation after 12 hours. In short, this kneading and strengthening of the yeast is carried out twice a day at 12-hour intervals, always making sure that, at the end of the 12 hours, you have a dough that has risen out of the water and has a thin yellow crust.
Did you know?
The word panettone derives from panetto, a form of pane (bread).
Panettone was apparently invented by a baker from Milan by the name of Tonic, hence pane de Tonio, which became panettone.
When the three days are over and you have carried out six kneadings, which have gradually strengthened the yeast, at the start of the fourth day you can begin to separate the compound.One part of this is not used and is submerged in water. This is the mother yeast that continues through time, and it is the starting point for new doughs made using the method described earlier.
The second part is used for the seventh kneading carried out with the usual amounts of mother yeast, flour and water.

Evening. 1st kneading (primo impasto)
The basic recipe is the following natural yeast obtained from

the eighth kneading and deprived of the crust g 2,000
Manitoba flour g 1,000
patent flour g 9,000
anhydrous butter g 2,000
sugar g 2,300
egg yolks (weighed) g 2,000
water L 4

If the butter is not anhydrous, recalculate the weight bearing in mind the percentage of water (about 15%), i.e. increasing the weight of the butter and reducing by the same amount the weight of the water.
The compound obtained is no longer submerged in water but is kept wrapped in a cloth, in an open container, for about four and a half hours at a temperature of 26°-28°C.
Once this period is over, the compound ought to have risen properly and have formed a surface crust that is removed before carrying out the eighth kneading. This kneading follows the method described: once again it is left to rest wrapped in a cloth, in an open container, for about four and a half hours at 26°-28°C. This completes the yeast production phase.

Madre

The madre is a sourdough starter which is traditionally wrapped first in a sheet of plastic, then in a muslin cloth, and finally tied all around with a twine.

Kneading method

Place 3/4 of the butter, melted but not hot (about 20°C), into the mixer. Add the Manitoba flour and the natural yeast deprived of the crust, and knead for about 10 minutes.
Mix sugar, egg yolks and water separately, bringing the mixture to a temperature of about 25°C.
After 10 minutes of kneading, and having obtained a smooth compound, add the rest of the butter, the mixture of sugar, egg yolks and water, and the patent flour, and begin kneading again for about 30 minutes.
The resulting compound is transferred to a plastic bowl and placed in a stove at 26°-28°C, for about 11-12 hours.
The optimum level of leavening has to be such that at the end of the period of rest the volume of the dough has increased by 150% of its initial volume. So make sure the bowl is big enough.
When the 12 hours are over, the yeast obtained is removed from the stove and allowed to rest in the work area for about one hour.
This completes the first kneading. The second kneading is carried out with the product obtained.

Morning. 2nd kneading (secondo impasto)
Basic recipe

Manitoba flour g 1,750
sugar g 2,000
egg yolks (weighed) g 2,000
custard g 1,000
whole eggs n. 30
vanilla extract mL 50
salt g 80
cubes of orange peel g 9,500
water g 500
anhydrous butter g 1,400

For traditional panettone the recommended quantities of candied fruit are

cubes of orange peel g 4,500
citron cubes g 2,000
sultanas g 3,000

For marron glacés panettone, recommended quantities are:

cubes of orange peel g 4,000
selected marrons glacés scraps g 5,500

Kneading method
Transfer the 1st dough to the mixer. Add all the flour and sugar and knead for 2-3 minutes.
Add the egg yolks in five intervals, waiting each time for them to amalgamate well, then the custard in three portions, and the whole eggs in three or four intervals.
Incorporate the vanilla extract followed by the water in two intervals. After adding the water, incorporate the melted butter (not hot) in three intervals; during the third amalgamation add the salt to the butter and mix well.
 
Snacks
To promote the consumption of classical panettone and its many variations, a particularly interesting idea is to prepare small 80 g pieces taken from each dough. In this way small panettones can be made, and these are then given the same finishing touches as large panettones.
These products are particularly suitable for breakfasts, snacks, and breaks.
With regards the amount of candied fruit, bear in mind that during the Easter period, when the yeast worked every day has a stronger leavening power, the quantity of 9.5 kg shown here is appropriate.
However, during periods in which the yeast is worked less, it is advisable to reduce this amount to 8.5 kg.
Once you have a homogenous dough, add the candied fruit and mix for a few minutes. Then transfer the lot to a plastic bowl and allow to rest in a stove at 28°-30°C for about 30-40 minutes.
When this period is over, make portions that are immediately placed back in the stove for another 30-40 minutes, making sure that a thick skin has formed on their surface. Then remove the portions from the stove and place them in their moulds, taking care not to break the surface skin.
Place the moulds back in the stove at 28°-30°C for about 4 hours.
Remove the moulds and allow them to cool for about one hour prior to the baking phase. Cut a cross, and place a knob of butter in the middle of the cross; place this in a 185°-190°C oven for 55 minutes per kg.
 
Panettone molds
They can be the reusable type made of metal or paper molds that stay around the products when they are sold.
When they come out of the oven, the panettones have to be turned upside down on the special racks or they can be spiked with pins and placed still upside down, to cool. In this way, the panettones do not lose their shapes.
For “low” panettone prior to baking, carry out a personalised coating with the special icing.
 
Panettone gastronomico
Savoury panettone is also possible. It has a salty dough and a rich filling of ham, salami, smoked salmon, caviar, pâté, tuna fish, eggs, mozzarella and other cheeses.
In the pages of “PIWWE” we publish more mouth-watering recipes for savoury Panettone.
Icing for low Panettone

toasted piedmontese nuts g 500
sweet and peeled almonds g 500
granulated sugar g 1,500
egg whites to taste

Work all the ingredients, except for the egg whites, in the refiner in order to obtain a flour that is not too fine, as it must not produce oil.
Mix it with the egg whites and prepare a soft batter that can be spread.
Spread it on the panettones and add some peeled almonds and crushed nuts. Dust with icing sugar.

Pasticceria Garino


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TRADITIONALS

The pastiera according to ICIF

Puff-pastry pandoro

Fried sweet doughnuts

Grape must doughnut

Grape bread

Peeled almond pinolate

Almond biscuits and merletti

Colomba pasquale

Meliga pastries

Zurigo

Pandolce

Royal paste or almond paste

Panettone

Panone from Bologna